If you are going to go with Alex drawers, find the style/color you want, then get something to work for your desk top that you can upgrade later.Īs far as holding the countertop in place, I think the weight will do most of that for you. You may want to look into stains/paints/sealers to further protect or customize.Ĭonsider building in "waves" if your budget doesn't allow you to go for more in one shot. Some people love Husky for the price, but others don't think they are deep enough and go the HR route if their budget allows or if they need more depth/keyboard space. If you go IKEA laminated countertops, you may want to use a support leg like you mentioned or consider using a/some center support beam(s) across the width if you don't want a vertical support (ex: )Ĭheck out Husky or Hardwood Reflections counter tops from Home Depot as solid top alternatives. Yes, some of those builds are completely over the top and waaay more money than you want to/can afford, but they are good for inspiration or finding ideas for portions of your build. I recommend you head over to r/battlestations and see what others are doing. Thanks a lot for your help! It's my first post here, I hope I'm not being much of a bother! I know bekant is a series of underframes so the one I'm currently looking at is: this one Also, If someone has the setup with Alex drawers, could you provide pics on how you hold your countertop in place (especially if you have 1 or more monitors mounted to it)? Another thing I wanted to ask, is how much weight can the BEKANT underframe hold? Since the karlby is 67 pounds it might be too heavy. My budget is about $300 if anyone has any suggestions. So, I'm currently thinking on what to do. I ordered a second monitor for work, and I'll get a monitor stand, but I'm worried the SÄLJAN might not be strong enough to hold 2-3 monitors, and I can't exactly drill holes in my apartment to install a mount in the wall. I was thinking of getting a 74" countertop from ikea, either the SÄLJAN with 2 Alex drawers, or the KARLBY with an non-adjustable BEKANT underframe. I currently have a small 47" desk which is no way near enough space for me. 2.Hey, I'm having a extremely hard time choosing a desk for some reason. This is by far the nicest plywood I’ve ever worked with! It’s also the most expensive, at around $45 per sheet.īut this was still MUCH cheaper than butcher block or even using 2 pre-made solid wood desk tops from Ikea. So after all my research and consulting my neighbor, I decided on a double-layer of sande finish birch veneer plywood. If you do want to do this project with butcher block, you can get it here, and if you’re looking for, say an 8′ or 6′ piece it will cost a lot less and it might make sense to just buy butcher block and set it on top of the drawer units. It’s available and would make this project much simpler… but I wasn’t willing to spend quite that much for the desk top. Next, I looked for a piece of 10′ long butcher block. Turns out that’s more difficult to come by than I had imagined. Since I wanted the desk to span the 118″ (almost ten foot) wall, I went hunting for 10′ long plywood. I’m relatively new to woodworking, and my goal was to make this project as simple as possible. 2 sheets 4’x8′ of sande plywood with birch or maple veneer. But then I realized that I will need a spot to sit between the kids, so I got rid of the middle file cabinet and replaced it with an ADILS desk leg from Ikea. I had originally planned to use three of the Alex drawer units, with one on each end, and one in the middle. And someday I plan to add an Alex unit to my own Ikea home office too! I like that it has a file drawer on the bottom. We used one to build the desk in Peter’s closet office. I knew right away that I wanted to use the Alex drawer units from Ikea for the work stations.
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